Thoughts on boar taint.

The purpose of this blog was to create a forum where farmers can discuss what goes on the farm and educate each other. For this reason I want to discuss issues that we recently faced in regards to boar taint.

My father and I have been farming heritage pigs together out on pasture for the last two years. It has been very exciting because 1) pigs are wonderful to work with 2) they are so healthy and the meat is excellent.

One management decision we butted heads over was whether or not to castrate the piglets.  My father was against it, and I defer to him on issues of animal health because I really respect his philosophy that selective breeding and letting the animal be as close to it’s natural state is best. For instance, we do not cut our lambs tails and have bred the wool out of our flock because this prevents issues that arise with flies and their larvae. I am concerned with meat quality and I contacted an academic at the University of Kentucky and then also a colleague who works as a chef on a farm and both said that if we were not going to castrate we had to harvest before sexual maturity which occurs around six months. I relayed this information to my father and we were all set to harvest the boars then but because of the issues with getting slaughter slots at our local processors (we had to wait 6 months!) we harvested after sexual maturity. While waiting we decided not to castrate because there is a lot of compelling data online on boar taint and many heritage producers who do not castrate and have been able to breed their herds free of boar taint. Supposedly, you can smell the taint on the boar and their urine. This all sounds rather nuts but after tasting our boar that had a slight taint I know what to look for and our boar does in fact give off this odor when he excited or in the presence of a female he wants to impress. So, if you know what odor to look for you can tell. I can. What an odd talent I now have!

Tamworths are supposed to have less boar taint than other pigs but our boar definitely has this trait. Thankfully, we only harvested a few of the boars and have been using it mostly for our own consumption. I find the taint to be mostly in the meat and not in the fat(which is against conventional wisdom). You can not taste the difference in the bacon or ground pork but there is a slight smell when you fry it. I am very sensitive to taste and smell and do not find it stomach churning or anything so maybe there are different degrees to the taint as well.

So, for now we are going to castrate our male piglets because at this point we can not trust that we can harvest before maturity because of issues with processing and in all honesty a few extra months makes for better pork because it helps with finishing.

What I take away from this experience is that farming is about problem solving and learning. It can be humbling but there are a lot of resources out there to help.  It would be great if a University could investigate if there are boars with less of the taint than others because we certainly do not enjoy castrating the piglets even though it can be done quickly and cleanly.  I am also curious about if there are more tests to see if a boar carries the taint and if it is true that the taint trait is carried by the sire.

Your thoughts and experiences are welcome too! Thank you.

Have you seen the horrific video recently published by the HSUS? They are quite disturbing and show how unnatural gestation crates are and how unhealthy it can be for the pig. Extremely cruel too.   I dislike HSUS’ approach, but we live in a sensationalist time where sex and violence sell, so I guess we get what we ask for. It would be nice if the discussion could also be about how brutal the Smithfield contracts are and how they give farmers absolutely no freedom to farm in a way let’s pigs be pigs.

As farmers that raise our animals outside, we are not immune to being targeted by animal rightists. In fact, Joel Salitin had the animal control authorities called on him because his animals looked “crowded”. This says more about our society than it does about how Joel farms, we like our farming to be hidden, and because so few of us farm, we have a very bizarre relationship with food and animals. We eat chicken breast but we do like like to eat beef on the bone. We treat our dogs like people, anthropomorphizing them, and then we force pigs, which are very thoughtful animals, into crates so small they are sickened because we do not want to be confronted with animal agriculture. OH, I digress.

Raising pigs on our farm has been a pure joy. They are such optimistic creatures. My father, who has worked on an industrialized pig farm in Denmark as a young man, is thrilled by how unstressed they are, and it is true. We have very calm pigs. I gave a tour to a friend, whose family were pig farmers in Iowa and she could not get over how there was no smell. Yes, we also have odorless pigs as well and this is all made possible by electric fences. WE are able to keep the pigs contained and healthy because of this modern technology and they are thriving!

Europe just passed a law that piglet castration with out the use of anesthesia should be banned. I wonder if we will follow suit (i doubt it). We have not castrated our piglets. We let them be (also we do not cut our lambs tails either).  Boar taint is actually very rare in domestic breeds and it can be easily bred out of herd if you have a boar that does not have the taint.*

* we are still in the mist of learning all about this. Update here.

Illustration by Melkorka Kjarval

Grass-fed beef has become a household name, but despite unprecedented awareness and demand, many American producers find themselves struggling to make a living, battling against infrastructural flaws brought about by decades of agricultural consolidation. Retail chains like Wegman’s (here in NY) and Trader Joe’s have recognized the demand for grass-fed beef, but instead of sourcing from American ranchers they import it from South America.

Many barriers exist between producer and plate, which are a result of profound consolidation in our meat packing industry and a breakdown in processing and distribution channels. Logic dictates that an increased demand for grass-fed beef would be enough to facilitate a market for it, but in many cases demand in itself is not enough. Direct sales require a lot of capital and risk, and can be difficult for ranchers who live far away from large cities because of lackluster local demand and high shipping costs. Little infrastructure exists for local meat sourcing, and farmers have had to create distribution channels themselves. Farmer Craig Rogers, of Border Springs Farm in Patrick Springs, Virginia shoulders all the distribution work himself, driving thousands of miles each week to deliver his high quality pastured lamb to top chefs in New York, DC, Charleston and Atlanta. “I spend $2500 per month in gas to distribute my lamb and lose money doing so,” he said.

Illustration by Melkorka Kjarval

Tennessee farmers Kimberlie and Ralph Cole of West Wind Farms find that direct marketing and distribution is a whole other job, and for full-time farmers the burden can be too much. Kimberlie laments the amount of time driving and the fatigue from so much energy going into distribution. “At the point of product distribution, so much energy has already been devoted to production and processing,” she said. “Ralph and I both realize we are at a very high risk of falling asleep at the wheel and having a major accident,” she added. They have had to get creative with their distribution, even hiring their own consumers to sell their meat at farmers’ markets and paying them with meat. Kimberly was quick to note that they could only afford their farm and land because it is so rural, and with tightening definitions of local she fears that many urban markets and consumers are cutting out farmers who are doing it right in very rural locations: “Urban people don’t recognize that some farms exist solely because they are remote. We would not have been able to afford a farm closer to an urban area, and we cannot survive on sales within a 100-mile radius of us. Excluding farms outside a 100-mile radius from direct marketing opportunities will kill small farms in remote rural areas that have no other viable markets.”

When there is no local demand

Issues of distribution are especially acute in America’s west, where grass-fed systems could arguably benefit us most. In Colorado and Wyoming, where 700,000 cattle are born each year, it is rare that a rancher finishes his own cattle, and for those who are doing it exclusively on grass, finding a market can be extremely difficult. Vast arid grasslands are being utilized and revitalized by ranchers like Rod Morrison of Rocky Mountain Organic Meats, whose rotational grazing practices guard against drought and rebuild soil fertility. Yet Rod has encountered many challenges in finding a market for his beef, and also feels that the local movement hurts organic producers like him who do not have local demand: “For us it became very clear we were not going to be able to compete using the old meat paradigm. We needed to connect directly with people that want this product, but cannot find it locally. Now everyone wants to argue the carbon footprint of home delivery. Home delivery does not even come close to the combined impacts of consumers driving to market to buy conventional meats.” Currently, Mr. Morrison sells direct via his website www.rockymtncuts.com, but feels that the future of his operation rests on finding a partner that can buy a certain amount of ground beef each year.

Colorado rancher Cathy McNeil is caught in a catch-22. Her product is too expensive for her rural neighbors because her community lacks local jobs, jobs that would be created if ranchers like her could become more financially viable: “It’s been difficult establishing local markets, especially here in the San Luis Valley, where the five counties within are the poorest in the state, with one of them being one of the poorest counties in the entire U.S. (It is known as the “Appalachia of the west.”) Therefore, many of the local people can’t or won’t pay our prices, which are higher than commercial beef because the processing costs are so much more, and as you know it takes a lot of time to finish out a steer on grass without growth hormones.”

Lack of Processing and Distribution Channels in Northeast

Even in New York, where we have arguably the biggest and most lucrative market for beef (most of American prime grade beef is consumed in NYC) there is no organized market for grass-fed beef and farmers have to sell their product directly. In central New York, where there is a dearth of USDA processing plants, direct sales are hampered because processing becomes a logistical challenge. Mike Baker of Cornell University is conducting a grass-fed beef study (three of our steers were included in this). It was not until buyers were secured for the steers in the study that it could begin. Dr. Baker stressed how there is no market or distribution system set up for American grass-fed beef, so many producers have to do it all on their own, which for most is impossible.

There are many other ranchers that want to switch to grass-fed finishing, but feel that it is too great a risk to shoulder all on their own. Many carry freezer beef, but still sell to feedlots to make a living. It is a rare rancher that can successfully navigate all of this. Many ranchers who want to make the switch find themselves in unsupportive communities, with inadequate processing alternatives and retailers unwilling to help them sell their products.

Lack of USDA slaughterhouses has become a well-known issue in the good food movement, but many do not realize the distribution issues that sustainable/organic farmers face, especially in rural regions where land stewardship and vibrant local economies are needed most. As a grass-fed farmer, I know the overwhelming obstacles that stand in the way of profit for my family. If not for the lucrative NYC market we would not be as successful. We need more independent “middlemen” to help facilitate business connections between ranchers and consumers. Two prominent retailers, Whole foods and Walmart, have made a commitment to sourcing from grass-fed ranches and medium sized farms, but the future will tell if infrastructure set up by these large chains benefits producers. We have to bring increased awareness to issues that face direct- market farmers, especially those out west who need our support. We also need to encourage our retailers to help create local systems, and keep a close eye on those that claim they do.

The cow above has the distinctive Simmental ears and the gorgeous highland coat.

My father has been able to build a hardy herd of cattle on a budget: it is a motley mix of Highland, Hereford, Angus and Simmental. This goes against prevailing cattle culture where “holy grail” genetics are marketed and sold to cattle farmers. This is fine, and for many cattle farmers this is how they can make money, it is just not how we farm. We have been very lucky in that we have many beef farming neighbors who we have been able to buy heifers from and rent bulls. A former dairy farmer sold my father quite a few of his Herefords, which are magnificent grazing cattle. They almost look like hippopotamuses, and are low to the ground, round with large stomachs and are rolly polly fat all year long.

My father is passionate about breeding animals that are healthy, thrive on our land, gain steadily on our grasses,  have excellent calving and mothering ability and nice temperaments. He is a big believer in sourcing from local farmers because local cattle are always the safest bet with grass finishing.  When he bred a local Simmental bull into our herd a few years ago I was skeptical. They are large, impressive cattle that are highly muscled, and the prevailing wisdom is that large framed cattle do not finish well on grass. Also, I have always wanted my father to keep our genetics purer because it seemed like it made marketing sense(and would help with meat consistency), but pure genetics are expensive and in reality, might not be the answer for local grass based farms like ours who are committed to farming drug free.

Simmental cattle are known for their ability to muscle, finish well, and they have great udders. In fact, many Hereford breeders like to cross with Simmental to correct some of the Hereford’s eye and udder issues. For us, they have added bulk and muscle to our highland and Hereford genetics, which helps with profitability and carcass weight. Simmental cattle have distinctive ears that are exceptionally cute.

The more I delve and learn about my dad’s breeding philosophy, and the more time I spend with our cattle, I realize there is a method to the madness. My father is just as concerned with “genetics” he just wants to see the proven results himself, on his land with our grass.  Farming in a natural way is quite humbling, and many preconceived notions can be proven wrong, but it is the path of discovery that is fascinating and is what probably keeps my father so youthful and passionate about what he does. Many grass-fed beef producers swear by buying local cattle.  This makes sense because if a cattle has done well on your neighbor’s pasture, there is a much better chance they will excel on yours.

I chatted a bit with my father about his philosophy yesterday and he shared with me some of his thoughts. He wants his  herd to be influenced by the best mothers, not the best bulls, and because of this, our herd is highly influenced by highland cattle—they really are excellent mothers. However, they do pose some profitably issues because they can be “runty” and it takes a long while for them to finish and many are small. Yet, there are so many advantages: they can live for 19 years giving a healthy calf each year, they thrive on poor forage, gain steadily in the winter and their beef is excellent. They also are not as bothered by the flies in the summer because of their full head of hair.

Dad with a Hereford/Simmental Bull he used for breeding this year.

My father is constantly creating solutions so that he can best utilize our pastures.  Now that we have started raising pigs, creative solutions were needed to incorporate them into our farm. Pigs are omnivores and their manure is a great fertilizer but they can be extremely destructive. My father has built mobile feeders and huts so that we can move the pigs around our farm. Rotating the pigs minimizes their impact; an added bonus is that they help to spread manure and we reduce feed costs because they consume a lot of fresh grass. We have been fascinated(and enthralled) by how much grass they consume and also how minimal their impact has been on a large pasture.  This system would be impossible without electric fences making this system very modern and new.

I created a photo essay on a very dark rainy day:

My dad putting some finishing touches on the pig hut

He made sure that there is grip for the pigs to climb into the hut with. Pigs can get excited.

We then filled it with hay. Hay smells delicious. The pigs will eat the hay and also use it for bedding.

My father moving the hut with the tractor. This makes moving the pig hut very easy, as you can see! 

We had to coax the pigs into the hut with corn, but once they realized it was there to keep them warm and cozy they now huddle together in a pile. Pigs are very smart.

Farmshed version 1.1 for iPhone was released Wednesday, November 3, 2010, and is now available for free download in the iTunes App Store. The Farmshed App provides detailed lists and descriptions of 1000+ organic and sustainable family farms, farmers markets, food producers, wineries, and locavore restaurants in Central New York and the Finger Lakes region. The application also includes accurate, geo-located directions to help the user locate the farms and businesses with ease.

Farmshed (www.farmshedcny.com) is a FREE application for iPhone created and developed by Neil Brody Miller, an adjunct professor of History at Onondaga Community College and author of Stressing the Vine, a blog on Central NY wine, food, art and culture.  The idea behind Miller’s concept is one of empowerment.

The Farmsed App helps users make smarter, informed food choices while grocery shopping, eating out or traveling. It also helps farmers and wineries by making their farms and vineyards easier to find. The concept shows the potential the web and mobile technology has to connect consumers with artisanal and organic producers who are seeking to market their products directly.

I have previously written on this topic of mobile applications and the incredible potential they have in connecting the food movement online and off. Food choices and access are often dictated by forces outside of our control, but concepts like the Farmshed App make good food choices and connections not only possible, but fun and hip.

For New York City folks headed upstate, I recommend downloading the free app so that you can experience the terrior of Central New York and the Fingerlake wine region. Seek out all the good food and people that our state has to offer.

Follow the Farmshed on Twitter

and Fan them on Facebook.

Cattle roam freely on Slope Farm, Meredith, NY

On Thursday, October 14th public school children across New York City enjoyed local grass-fed beef sourced from Slope Farms in Meredith, NY. The event marked two years of collaboration between Ken Jaffe of Slope Farms, NYC School Food and Wellness in the Schools.

The event, which served local grass-fed beef in 18 schools, is part of the National School Lunch Week 2010 and demonstrates how relationships between farmers and institutions can have a meaningful impact on school lunch.

Ken Jaffe, a former physician turned grass-fed beef farmer, shared his feelings on the event:

“During the years that I’ve been raising grass-fed beef, after 25 years of practicing medicine, I like to say that sustainable farming is  ‘applied public health’.  The US has no more urgent public health priority, or challenge, than improving the nutrition of school children, including the hundreds of thousands of children who are served lunch every school day in the NYC schools. By serving children local grass- fed meats, with healthier fat profiles, raised without antibiotics or added hormones, this event makes a statement to children and adults that improved nutrition and farming practices are linked. “

The fact that grass-fed beef was enjoyed by so many school children demonstrates that downstate and upstate alliances can create channels that would otherwise have not existed. Jaffe worked with NYC SchoolFood to create standards for local grass-fed beef, procurement policies and healthy made-from-scratch recipes. The ground beef was raised on an upstate farm, processed in a New York USDA plant and shipped down to New York to be cooked and served to thousands of children.

The program sends a message that healthy food starts on the farm and is prepared freshly with health and taste in mind. This winning combination was evidenced by how much the kids enjoyed it.

After attending the school lunch where his beef was served, Jaffe said:

“It’s been great to play a small part in the movement to improve the nutrition and health of NYC children, and to demonstrate that we can improve the health of our children by the way we produce food on the farm.”

Grass-fed Lamb Chops with Sage Pesto and Mashed Potatoes and Sauteed Zucchini

When you have flavorful meats simplicity is key and I have found that cast iron skillets work exceptionally well frying steaks and lamb chops. Here, I seasoned the lamb chops simply with salt and pepper and fried them in olive oil quickly making sure I got a nice sear.  I added flavor to the sides with a sage pesto served over mashed potatoes and sauteed zucchini.  Sage is a wonderful herb that grows really well in the Catskills. It survives frost and comes back every year and I find it is still growing well past Thanksgiving. It is also especially good with potatoes and really compliments grass fed meats because it is a robust herb.

Sage Pesto

Ingredients:

• 1/4 cup olive oil
• a hand full of sage, stems removed (about 2 tablespoons)

Preparation: In a food processors process the sage and oil together. Serve over mashed potatoes or polenta.

I was interviewed for this important article entitled “I CAN’T BELIEVE THEY’RE EATING THE WHOLE THING” by Lorraine Thompson for the The Valley Table which focuses on an issue close to my heart: the importance of Nose-to-tail eating and the structural issues of our food system.

“Local processing backlogs force some Hudson Valley farmers to set slaughter dates a year in advance, a disaster for small suppliers like the Kjarval family. “We spend more than two years raising a steer until he is perfectly finished,” explains Ingimundur Kjarval’s daughter Ulla, who markets her family’s meats. “We monitor and make sure he’s growing and gaining correctly.” Finishing, she says, is an art, dependant on weather, pasture conditions and other variables. To avoid losing their investment, she says small farmers need flexibility from processors, which is impossible under what she calls the current “broken” regional slaughter system.”

We need to get chefs to understand that

1. it takes a long time to get an animal ready for slaughter
2. an animal is not just steak
3. we need to have each animal accounted for when it is born

It is disheartening when I am confronted by how little chefs know about what sustainable meat sourcing entails. Having a trendy cut of steak on a menu all year round is something that can ONLY be sourced from a very, very big ‘farm’ and does not reflect a true commitment to sustainability. Even short ribs, which have become a popular menu item, can be hard for a farmer to source because they have become so popular.

Granted, we are relearning a lot of things together: farmers are learning to finish animals on grass, consumers are learning how to cook, learning to braise, treat the meat differently and this is all very inspiring. BUT, and this is a BIG BUT—- we need more NYC chefs that are willing and committed to working with local farmers.

When a chef or caterer comes to me and asks for flank steak or lamb loin chops, I wonder what they are teaching at the culinary schools because it demonstrates a complete lack of understanding of what a small farm can accommodate—- not to mention a lack of understanding of butchery. I am going to be speaking at Cornell next month about online marketing and I am excited to advise farmers about how to utilize the internet but I am also going to tell them not to be shy about educating “culinary experts” about what true sustainability is; and friends, it is NOT a skirt steak.

FairmAid and CREDO have joined together to draft a letter to Attorney General Eric Holder to follow through on ongoing investigations of anticompetitive conduct in the dairy industry and to investigate the antitrust allegations outlined in pending lawsuits filed against DFA, Dean Foods, among others. Please read and sign the letter here.